Final Day

Hallgrimskirsja is probably one of the most recognizable landmarks in Reykjavik.  Sitting atop a hill, the soaring church can be seen from many points in the city.  It looked like a space shuttle to me, but I'm told the pillars on the sides represents the basalt rock formations found in the country.  Clocks adorn the four sides at the top of the tower where tourists can look out over the city.  We were there before sunrise and got to watch the city take on a golden glow with the rising sun.  The church itself is Lutheran which is the most common religion in Iceland.

We were turned loose to look around the city and also pick 7 photos to present at our final critique.  By this point in the trip we are expected to have upped our game, with our lighting and composition forming a better photo than at the start of the trip.  Although Ira did it in a kind way, he spared no one in giving suggestions on what would have made a better photo.  Everyone took it well and I think all felt it was offered in a positive manner.

We had a couple of hours before our final gathering which many used to shop or pack.  Liza gathers our strongest images for a slideshow of our week's work. Set to music, it's a great way to wrap up the week. We really have improved and our photos present a strong essay of our week.  Everyone shared lessons learned and thank you's were offered to Liza and Ira for shepherding us through the trip.

Our final dinner was at the Hilton.  It's surprising how complete strangers become friends in the course of a week.  Many of us will find ourselves on other Liza/Ira tours in the future.  It's a great experience to be able to share our love of photography with others that are equally enthusiastic.  

Tomorrow: One last adventure and several good-byes

The Golden Circle

We started off the day with a critique session before boarding our bus one final time to drive The Golden Circle.  Our first stop was at 
Stokkur which is a national park with a winding rock walled path that leads to a pleasant, if not spectacular, waterfall.  Another path takes you over a meandering river with more photo opportunities. We re-boarded our bus for our final waterfall of the trip.

I think one of our favorite stops was getting to pet the Icelandic horses.  We got another opportunity to interact with a larger herd today.  They are so friendly and photogenic.

Our next stop was Thingvillir where hot steam escapes the earth from a rock field of vents.  This eerie scene also includes a geysir that erupts every few minutes to the onlookers' delight.  Right before blowing, a giant bubble forms over the opening,  the water shoots high into the air and then repeats the cycle.

Gullfoss is a spectacular waterfall which you can view from both above and below.  It is very wide at the top and drapes over several tiers of rocks before reaching the bottom.  The force of the water creates a gentle roar.  The mist was banded by a rainbow when we arrived which gave way to a glow from the setting sun.  Ice on the paths made walking a little tricky but manageable.  We finished the stop at the bottom awed by is force of nature.

Although our full day left us tired, several of us dined at Epotek as a final meal before our farewell dinner on Saturday.  With offerings of small plates as well as full meals everyone found something to their liking.  Ira called at the end of the meal to let us know the Northern Lights were visible.  Some went to the church to shoot while others of us went to the lake.  The ambient light from the city made this a more difficult shoot, but those who tried were rewarded with pictures.

Tomorrow: Around Reykjavik 

A Stunning Beach at Sunrise

With sunrise somewhere south of 9 am, we had time for breakfast before packing up.  We could not have asked for a better morning with clear skies and calm winds.  We each picked our spot to watch the sun rise over the icy bay.  Ice formed around the black rocks that lined the shore while ice floated on the water.  Snow capped mountains caught the morning light.  We all shot in silence soaking in this magical place.  Liza had to drag us away as the sun broke over the mountains.  I think we could have easily spent many contemplative hours on this deserted bay.

We had many hours of driving ahead of us and we got to experience the ever changing weather first hand.  From sun to rain to sleet back to sun we saw it all.  We made a quick lunch stop and also a stop to take photos at another waterfall off the road.

Our late afternoon destination, The Blue Lagoon, was strictly for pleasure with the man made pool enticing us to lounge in hot tub temperature water.  A swim up bar serves wine, beer and fruit smoothes.  Everyone applied a layer of white mud to their faces as a beauty treatment followed by a moisturizing mask.  While not a natural geothermal pool, it was very welcomed by this group of road weary travelers.

A late arrival a the Hotel Holt left some ordering room service while others of us went in search of a bite before retiring.  Susan and I found a charming Italian restaurant, Primo, where we split a main course.  The food has been surprisingly good in Iceland with fish, lamb and beef offered almost every place we stopped.  

Tomorrow: The Golden Circle

Black Lava Beaches and a wrecked Plane to boot

This morning we started with our second critique.  Today, Ira was a little less gentle with us, pointing out the small details that can make or break a photo.  Everyone was receptive to the pointers and hopefully gained the knowledge they seek on a trip such as this.

After checking out of the hotel, we headed to a spot near Reynisfjara beach where an American Navy DC 3 landed thinking they were having mechanical issues.  This turned out to be false, but the beach landing caused enough damage that it ended up being its final resting place.  We made a brief stop to photograph the now decaying plane. 

A short distance away is Reynisfjara black lava beach.  The black sand is thick and serves as a backdrop to the crashing waves of the ocean.  Basalt formations rise from the beach in layered columns most likely formed by volcanic activity also forming caves along the coast line.  It’s easy to see how people are killed here every year by the strong tides.  

After lunch in Vik, we headed out for the Jokulseron ice lagoon.  Old amphibious vehicles (like the Ducks in Seattle and Boston) took us out into the harbor to cruise around large icebergs floating in the sea.  As we found in Antarctica, the ice takes on different shapes and sizes as it floats and ages.  Some were covered in black but all very stunning.  We were allowed time to photograph the lagoon until dark.

Our lodging for the night was The Hali Country House.  While simpler than the Ranga, the accommodations were quite nice as was the restaurant in the hotel's main building.  We tried to find Northern Lights with no success.  Off to bed for a sunrise shoot in the morning.

Tomorrow: Sunrise at the Ice Lagoons 

Land of Waterfalls and Glaciers

The photo workshops with Liza and Ira are meant to sharpen your photographic skills in scenic settings.  Part of the learning takes place in the critique sessions held several times during the week.  Each student comes to class with 5 images to be reviewed by Ira and Liza.  The critiques are tailored to your skill level, so someone that is fairly new to photography will receive appropriate praise and criticism. This morning we held our first one which was surprisingly good for this early in the trip.

After lunch we were back on our bus for sightseeing in the area.  Seljalandfoss was our first waterfall stop.  These are the waterfalls you see in photos, tall and powerful with thousands of gallons spilling each minute.  With a short climb you could actually go behind the waterfall for an interesting perspective.  This was our first lesson in taking photographs where the objective is to slow down the look of the water to a cottony flow.

Our next stop was Skogafoss Waterfall, perhaps one of the most famous in Iceland.  You can walk right up to the edge of this one, but you better have your raingear on if you have hopes of remaining dry.  The force of the water creates a mist that rises all around it soaking anyone nearby.  On the one side of Skogafoss is a stepped trail leading to the top where a viewing platform allows you to look down on it.

Our final stop for the day was the Solheimjokull Glacier.  You could see the ice mass from the parking lot where the trailhead takes you out onto the ice.  The glacier is partially covered with very dark volcanic sand which deceptively covers the ice awaiting ice below.  After a short hike, you arrive and the beginning of the exposed glacier.  We ran across several well equipped groups returning from a day of ice hiking.

The forecast was good for light viewing today with the skies clearing after an afternoon rain.  Just as we were finishing up dinner, the hotel manager announced there was a showing of lights.  We threw on warm clothes and our camera gear and heading out to a viewing ridge.  The pictures you see of spectacularly green skies look more dramatic than what you see in person.  It takes the dynamic range of the camera’s sensor to capture the dancing lights.  We all got our shots in before the rain forced us back inside.  An hour later we were all back outside with a more dramatic show awaiting us.  After less than an hour another shower forced us in for the night.

Tomorrow: Black beaches and the wreck of a plane

Out in The Country

We headed out of Reykjavik today to the southeast side of the island.  Because we’re approaching winter the sunrise is well after 9:00 a.m. which gave us time to get to our first stop before the sun rose.  

Churches seem to have a very similar design with a red steeple roof and white walls.  This one also has a cemetery attached which was the highlight of the stop.  In addition to the traditional headstone, many of the graves also had little stone angels, cherubs and birds.  Some displayed pictures of the departed.  Sunrise gave the whole scene a special glow.

Our next stop was a historical Viking house.  It was on a hill which made it particularly cold with the strong winds whipping around the point.  The house was covered in what looked to be thick grass bricks.  We could not go inside but it did give you perspective on what a harsh life they lived.

We had a long drive to our destination, so the afternoon was spent sightseeing through the bus windows.  The countryside is a mixture of flat pasture with grazing sheep and jagged mountains formed by volcanic activity some as recent as 2010 when an erupting volcano brought European air traffic to a halt.

Our final stop before our hotel was at a roadside field which held a herd of Icelandic ponies.  The horses are wooly, short and stout and very friendly.  The minute we came up to the fence they all came galloping over to investigate their visitors.  They definitely were not afraid of being pet and would somewhat aggressively let you know it. 

Our hotel for the next two nights is The Ranga.  Named one of the best in Iceland, this charming hotel displayed rustic charm with outdoor hot tubs and wooden beam interior.  The restaurant had many gourmet offerings in a relaxed setting.  They also cater to those looking to see the Northern Lights.  Before you retire for the evening you can let the front desk know if you would like to have a wake-up call if there is a light display during the night.  Of course our group automatically opted in.  However it was not to be tonight since we were under complete cloud cover.  I believe everyone welcomed a good night sleep.

Tomorrow: Waterfalls and glaciers.